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A trip to Magadan – gateway to Russia’s Far Eastern Kolyma region (PHOTOS)




At the far end of Russia, in a place few have ever seen or heard of, is the remarkable untouched region known as Kolyma. It’s there that I travelled in late July of this summer.

The river Kolyma gave its name to the whole region – formally called Magadanskaya Oblast. The oblast is located in Russia’s Far East, on the coast of the Okhotsk Sea.

Kolyma is rich in wildlife – though these deer are a bit more domesticated

A modern airliner will deliver you from Moscow to Magadan within eight hours. This port city is the center of the region. In July, summer temperatures have already peaked at +14 celsius. Meanwhile the mist and wind by the sea coast will refresh your spirit and calm your mood.

Monument to the founders of Magadan

Magadan is assumed to have been built in 1929. That year Nagaevskaya Bay saw the first Soviet romantics – geologists who believed the region might be rich in gold. As it turns out, they were not mistaken, and gold mining is still one of the most developed industries here.

Magadan – founded 1929

Another one seems to be fishery. Fish is more popular than meat among all ages – and cheaper. The average grocery bill in Magadan is higher than in Moscow, but the universal favorite – salmon roe – is definitely more affordable.

Apart from mining, the sea is a valuable resource for the city’s economy

Despite there being a state program to help Russians and CIS citizens come and settle in Kolyma, the density of the population is very low (0,31 per km2). Around 145,500 people live in Magadan oblast.  But it’s not surprising – we’re hardly talking about Miami beach. Because of the permafrost, architects cannot build skyscrapers. It affects nature as well. Trees are not tall and grow very, very slowly.

Magadan cathedral

You could hardly get lost in Magadan. The most useful point for orienting yourself in any weather is Holy Trinity Cathedral. Its domes are clearly visible throughout the city, rain or shine.

Magadan main street, named after Lenin

Another view of central Magadan

General view of the city

Lenin street slightly reminded me of Yalta, Crimea’s most famous seaside locale. It probably has something to do with the huge number of seagulls, who clearly feel that they are the real owners of Magadan. Sometimes it is not easy to fall asleep, as the seagulls settle on the all buildings’ roofs. They vividly and loudly express make themselves known. Should you want to gaze at the city from above like the seagulls, you may take a ride on the Ferris wheel.

Seagulls are omnipresent

The city Ferris wheel

Magadan Ferris wheel affords tourists a glance at one of the bays – Nagaev Bay. This is the place from where the city started. 1.5 thousand demobilized Red Army soldiers from the Far East Army under V. Blyukher’s command began to develop the wild land of Kolyma in the early thirties. The ships loaded with equipment and foodstuffs could not come close to the shore (there was no dock or port). So the men offloaded supplies to build the first settlement, waist-deep in cold water.

The bay at low tide

In 1932 the infamous Magadan prison camp was established, and the prisoners helped demobilized Red Army men to build a road to the gold mines and develop the infrastructure of Kolyma. Russian sculptor Ernst Neizvestny memorialized the hardships and sacrifice of the political prisoners with a fifteen meter high monument.

The Mask of Sorrow is located on a hill above the city and serves as a good viewing site. So far it is not often visited by the locals, seeing that bears have got into the habit of visiting it themselves. People keep feeding the foxes despite warnings not to do it. It wasn’t long before the bears too found an easy source of food.

The mask of sorrow – memorial to Magadan’s Gulag prisoners

Vadim Kozin’s monument

There is also Vadim Kozin’s museum. The famous Soviet singer and composer was sent to Magadan as a prisoner, and after his release he decided to stay.

The baby mammoth “Dima”

Natural history is also remarkable in Magadan. A prehistoric baby mammoth was discovered in 1977 when geologists were looking for gold. The mammoth’s body was fully preserved due to the permafrost. He was called Dima and put on display for museum visitors. Another Dima, a monument, was made of scrap metal. His rusty figure weighs six tons.

A local curiosity – a six ton mammoth sculpture made of scrap metal

Famous Soviet singer-songwriter, poet, and actor Vladimir Vysotsky visited Magadan once in his life, for just one day. But it was enough excuse for the locals to erect his monument in Magadan. Vysotsky stands on the Okhotsk sea and looks out into the distance.

Vladimir Vysotsky was a famous Soviet singer and songwriter

The city’s TV tower is considered to be a local landmark. By New Year’s Eve it is decorated with garlands and lights. And then Magadan’s citizens love what they call their freezing “Paris” even more.

The TV tower is one of the city’s tallest landmarks

The kind of art to be found on many Soviet-era buildings

Leisure facilities are also nearby. I would recommend going to the ski center. In the summer it looks a bit deserted, but it’s a great place to enjoy flowering plants and the singing of grasshoppers.

Russia’s Far East is mainly an untouched wilderness – there are only a few signs of man

Magadan is a place few people would ever think to visit. But that’s exactly what makes it worthwhile. Its people live a challenging life, but are proud of their city – with all its sufferings and achievements. And it’s a fitting gateway to the wild, beautiful, and untapped Kolyma region.

Historical reference:

Magadan by A. Biryukov; Magadan book publisher; 1996

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Don’t Laugh : It’s Giving Putin What He Wants

The fact of the matter is that humorous lampooning of western establishment Russia narratives writes itself.

Caitlin Johnstone



Authored by Caitlin Johnstone:

The BBC has published an article titled “How Putin’s Russia turned humour into a weapon” about the Kremlin’s latest addition to its horrifying deadly hybrid warfare arsenal: comedy.

The article is authored by Olga Robinson, whom the BBC, unhindered by any trace of self-awareness, has titled “Senior Journalist (Disinformation)”. Robinson demonstrates the qualifications and acumen which earned her that title by warning the BBC’s audience that the Kremlin has been using humor to dismiss and ridicule accusations that have been leveled against it by western governments, a “form of trolling” that she reports is designed to “deliberately lower the level of discussion”.

“Russia’s move towards using humour to influence its campaigns is a relatively recent phenomenon,” Robinson explains, without speculating as to why Russians might have suddenly begun laughing at their western accusers. She gives no consideration to the possibility that the tightly knit alliance of western nations who suddenly began hysterically shrieking about Russia two years ago have simply gotten much more ridiculous and easier to make fun of during that time.

Couldn’t possibly have anything to do with the emergence of a demented media environment wherein everything around the world from French protests to American culture wars to British discontent with the European Union gets blamed on Russia without any facts or evidence. Wherein BBC reporters now correct guests and caution them against voicing skepticism of anti-Russia narratives because the UK is in “an information war” with that nation. Wherein the same cable news Russiagate pundit can claim that both Rex Tillerson’s hiring and his later firing were the result of a Russian conspiracy to benefit the Kremlin. Wherein mainstream outlets can circulate blatantly false information about Julian Assange and unnamed “Russians” and then blame the falseness of that reporting on Russian disinformation. Wherein Pokemon Go, cutesy Facebook memes and $4,700 in Google ads are sincerely cited as methods by which Hillary Clinton’s $1.2 billion presidential campaign was outdone. Wherein conspiracy theories that Putin has infiltrated the highest levels of the US government have been blaring on mainstream headline news for two years with absolutely nothing to show for it to this day.

Nope, the only possibility is that the Kremlin suddenly figured out that humor is a thing.

The fact of the matter is that humorous lampooning of western establishment Russia narratives writes itself. The hypocrisy is so cartoonish, the emotions are so breathlessly over-the-top, the stories so riddled with plot holes and the agendas underlying them so glaringly obvious that they translate very easily into laughs. I myself recently authored a satire piece that a lot of people loved and which got picked up by numerous alternative media outlets, and all I did was write down all the various escalations this administration has made against Russia as though they were commands being given to Trump by Putin. It was extremely easy to write, and it was pretty damn funny if I do say so myself. And it didn’t take any Kremlin rubles or dezinformatsiya from St Petersburg to figure out how to write it.

“Ben Nimmo, an Atlantic Council researcher on Russian disinformation, told the BBC that attempts to create funny memes were part of the strategy as ‘disinformation for the information age’,” the article warns. Nimmo, ironically, is himself intimately involved with the British domestic disinformation firm Integrity Initiative, whose shady government-sponsored psyops against the Labour Party have sparked a national scandal that is likely far from reaching peak intensity.

“Most comedy programmes on Russian state television these days are anodyne affairs which either do not touch on political topics, or direct humour at the Kremlin’s perceived enemies abroad,” Robinson writes, which I found funny since I’d just recently read an excellent essay by Michael Tracey titled “Why has late night swapped laughs for lusting after Mueller?”

“If the late night ‘comedy’ of the Trump era has something resembling a ‘message,’ it’s that large segments of the nation’s liberal TV viewership are nervously tracking every Russia development with a passion that cannot be conducive to mental health – or for that matter, political efficacy,” Tracey writes, documenting numerous examples of the ways late night comedy now has audiences cheering for a US intelligence insider and Bush appointee instead of challenging power-serving media orthodoxies as programs like The Daily Show once did.

If you wanted the opposite of “anodyne affairs”, it would be comedians ridiculing the way all the establishment talking heads are manipulating their audiences into supporting the US intelligence community and FBI insiders. It would be excoriating the media environment in which unfathomably powerful world-dominating government agencies are subject to less scrutiny and criticism than a man trapped in an embassy who published inconvenient facts about those agencies. It certainly wouldn’t be the cast of Saturday Night Live singing “All I Want for Christmas Is You” to a framed portrait if Robert Mueller wearing a Santa hat. It doesn’t get much more anodyne than that.

Russia makes fun of western establishment narratives about it because those narratives are so incredibly easy to make fun of that they are essentially asking for it, and the nerdy way empire loyalists are suddenly crying victim about it is itself more comedy. When Guardian writer Carole Cadwalladr began insinuating that RT covering standard newsworthy people like Julian Assange and Nigel Farage was a conspiracy to “boost” those people for the advancement of Russian agendas instead of a news outlet doing the thing that news reporting is, RT rightly made fun of her for it. Cadwalladr reacted to RT’s mockery with a claim that she was a victim of “attacks”, instead of the recipient of perfectly justified ridicule for circulating an intensely moronic conspiracy theory.

Ah well. People are nuts and we’re hurtling toward a direct confrontation with a nuclear superpower. Sometimes there’s nothing else to do but laugh. As Wavy Gravy said, “Keep your sense of humor, my friend; if you don’t have a sense of humor it just isn’t funny anymore.”

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EU’s ‘toothless’ response to creation of Kosovo army risks worsening the crisis – Moscow

Russia’s ambassador to the UN said that the EU could have and should have done more to stop the breakaway region from creating its own army.





Via RT…

The creation of Kosovo’s own 5,000-strong army is a threat to peace and security in a turbulent region and may lead to a new escalation, Russia’s UN envoy has warned, calling the EU’s lackluster response irresponsible.

Speaking at the UN Security Council emergency meeting on Kosovo, Russia’s ambassador to the UN Vassily Nebenzya said that the EU could have and should have done more to stop the breakaway region from creating its own army to replace its lightly armed emergency response force.

“The EU reaction to the decision by Pristina cannot be described as other than toothless. This irresponsible policy has crossed the line,” Nebenzya said, after the UNSC meeting on Monday.

The diplomat said the lack of decisive action on the part of the 28-member bloc was a “great disappointment,” adding that the EU seems to “have turned a blind eye on the illegal creation of Kosovo’s ‘army.’”

The law, approved by Kosovo lawmakers on Friday, paves the way for doubling the size of the current Kosovo Security Force and for turning it into a de facto army, with 5,000 soldiers and 3,000 reservists.

The move did not go down well even with Kosovo’s usual backers, with both NATO and the EU voicing their indignation. NATO’s General Secretary Jens Stoltenberg called the decision “ill-timed” and lamented that Kosovo’s authorities had ignored “the concerns expressed by NATO.”

The EU’s top diplomat, Federica Mogherini, has echoed those concerns, saying in a statement that the mandate of Kosovo’s forces “should only be changed through an inclusive and gradual process” in accordance with the state’s constitution.

The only nation to openly applaud the controversial move was the US, with its ambassador to Kosovo, Phillip Kosnett, saying that Washington “reaffirms its support” for the upgrade as it is “only natural for Kosovo as a sovereign, independent country” to have a full-fledged army.

The Kosovo MPs’ decision has drawn anger in the Serbian capital Belgrade and provoked a strong response from Moscow, which calledon the UN mission in Kosovo to demilitarize the area in accordance with UNSC resolution 1244, and to disband any armed units.

Nebenzya pointed out that the UN resolution does not allow any Kosovo Albanian military units to be present in the region’s territory. He accused Western countries, including members of the NATO-led international peacekeeping force (KFOR), of “condoning and supporting” the violation by Pristina of the resolution.

It is feared that the army, though a relatively small force, might inflame tensions in the region and impede attempts at reconciliation between Pristina and Belgrade. Serbia has warned that it might consider an armed intervention if the army becomes a threat to the 120,000-strong Serb minority in Kosovo.

“The advance of Kosovo’s army presents a threat to the peace and security in the region, which may lead to the recurrence of the armed conflict,” Nebenzya stated.

In addition to creating its own army, Kosovo in November hit Serbia with a 100 percent import tariff on goods, defying calls by the US and the EU to roll the measure back.

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Ukraine’s President Says “High” Threat Of Russian Invasion, Urges NATO Entry In Next 5 Years

Poroshenko is trying desperately to hold on to power, even if it means provoking Russia.



Via Zerohedge

Perhaps still seeking to justify imposing martial law over broad swathes of his country, and attempting to keep international pressure and media focus on a narrative of “Russian aggression,” Ukrainian President Petro Poroshenko denounced what he called the high “threat of Russian invasion” during a press conference on Sunday, according to Bloomberg.

Though what some analysts expected would be a rapid flair up of tit-for-tat incidents following the late November Kerch Strait seizure of three Ukrainian vessels and their crew by the Russian Navy has gone somewhat quiet, with no further major incident to follow, Poroshenko has continued to signal to the West that Russia could invade at any moment.

“The lion’s share of Russian troops remain” along the Russian border with Ukraine, Poroshenko told journalists at a press conference in the capital, Kiev. “Unfortunately, less than 10 percent were withdrawn,” he said, and added: “As of now, the threat of Russian troops invading remains. We have to be ready for this, we won’t allow a repeat of 2014.”

Poroshenko, who declared martial law on Nov. 26, citing at the time possible imminent “full-scale war with Russia” and Russian tank and troop build-up, on Sunday noted that he will end martial law on Dec. 26 and the temporarily suspended presidential campaign will kick off should there be no Russian invasion. He also previously banned all Russian males ages 16-60 from entering Ukraine as part of implementation of 30 days of martial law over ten provinces, though it’s unclear if this policy will be rescinded.

During his remarks, the Ukrainian president said his country should push to join NATO and the EU within the next five years, per Bloomberg:

While declining to announce whether he will seek a second term in the office, Poroshenko said that Ukraine should achieve peace, overcome the consequences of its economic crisis and to meet criteria to join the EU and the North Atlantic Treaty Organization during next five years.

But concerning both his retaining power and his ongoing “threat exaggeration” — there’s even widespread domestic acknowledgement that the two are clearly linked.

According to The Globe and Mail:

While Mr. Poroshenko’s domestic rivals accuse him of exaggerating the threat in order to boost his own flagging political fortunes — polls suggest Mr. Poroshenko is on track to lose his job in a March election — military experts say there are reasons to take the Ukrainian president’s warning seriously.

As we observed previously, while European officials have urged both sides to exercise restraint, the incident shows just how easily Russia and the West could be drawn into a military conflict over Ukraine.

Certainly Poroshenko’s words appear designed to telegraph just such an outcome, which would keep him in power as a war-time president, hasten more and massive western military support and aid, and quicken his country’s entry into NATO — the latter which is already treating Ukraine as a de facto strategic outpost.

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